While Americans dress up in their finest, go to church, share a family meal, paint Easter eggs and then hunt for them, Spaniards celebrate this time much differently. Forty days before Easter Sunday, Spaniards give up eating meat on Fridays as well as prepare and ramp up their drum playing until the final week of what is called La Semana Santa.
Few words can express the actual plethora of emotions about the experience of La Semana Santa. It is one that must be experienced, not written about. Spaniards celebrate with an outpour of people into the streets to commemorate the death and then resurrection of Jesús. It was confusing as I didn´t understand the religious context of the processions and it took some research to understand the complexity of this week here in Spain.
La Semana Santa, also known as Holy Week, is a Catholic religious holiday the week before Easter. Participants or penitents (nazarenos) conceal their identity by wearing a medieval robe and cone-like hood (capirote) while demonstrating their penance. God is the only one who knows their identity.
The opening processions takes place on Palm Sunday with more solemn processions on Good Friday with the depiction of the crucifixion of Christ and then ends with more joyous processions on Easter Sunday for the celebration of Christ’s resurrection. The bearers (costaleros) are part of brotherhoods (cofradias) and carry floats along the streets followed by pointy-hooded penitents. For most bearers, this is a once in a lifetime honor. The ornate floats usually represent a part of the Easter story and date back to the 17th century. The penitents march and stop in unison to the beat of drums. When the drums stop, they remain absolutely still.
Throughout Spain, cities celebrate La Semana Santa in various ways. Some celebrate with silent religious processions while others celebrate with the beating of loud drums. The most popular celebrations are in Seville, Granada Cadiz, Málaga and León while other cities such as Valladolid and Teruel are events that are more solemn.
Two spectacular events are:
Bajo Aragón: Ruta del Tambor y Bombo:
Musicians from around the region, both young and old, join together for the spectacular drumming event called La Ruta del Tambor y Bombo. It became well-known by the Spanish director Luis Buñuel and now Bajo Aragón is infamous for it. During Holy Week, people hop from one village to the next to see a river of drummers playing music and pounding on bass drums. You can find out more at: www.rutadeltamborybombo.com.
The villages involved are Albalate del Arzobispo, Alcañiz, Alcorisa, Andorra, Calanda, Jíjar, La Puebla de Hijar, Samper de Calanda, Urrea de Gaén.
La Cruz in Alcorisa: In 1978, a group of young people from Alcorisa, decided to re-enact the crucifixion of Jesús. Now, every Easter, the tradition continues as actors of all ages participate in the dramatization of this story, which took place in the 1st century AD. From Jesús’ first sermon on the mountain to his followers to his entrance into Jerusalem on a donkey and the last supper, people witness each stage of the cross. Jesús is then betrayed and taken before Pontius Pilate, where he is condemned to a whipping.
Afterwards, he is escorted by Roman soldiers as he carries a log and chained for punishment. Upon his arrival to Golgotha, he is sentenced to death. His execution on the cross takes place on the mountaintop along with two other thieves. His mother embraces his body and then is taken away. To read more, visit: www.dramadelacruz.es.
For a truly authentic and memorable experience of Spanish culture, I recommend visiting during La Semana Santa. Nothing is more apparent as to the influence of culture and religion as during this memorable week. You can see more images on my photography website: www.lorineedleman.com: Fiestas: La Cruz de Jesús and La Semana Santa.
